Common Stove and Oven Problems We Fix

Oven Not Heating Up

You turn the oven on, set the temperature, but it stays cold. This is the most common issue we see and it ruins dinner plans instantly.

• Broken bake or broil element (electric)
• Weak or failed igniter (gas)
• Tripped thermal fuse
• Control board relay failure
• Incoming power issue

How we diagnose it:
For electric units, we test the heating elements for continuity. For gas ovens, we observe the igniter to see if it glows but fails to open the gas safety valve. We also verify the voltage reaching the unit.

What you can do right now:
Check your home circuit breaker. Electric ovens require two breakers, and if only one trips, the lights might work but the heat will not. Reset both breakers to be sure.

Gas Burner Will Not Light

Clicking, clicking, clicking, but no flame. This is frustrating and can sometimes lead to a faint smell of gas if the valve is open but not igniting.

• Clogged burner ports due to spills
• Misaligned burner cap
• Failed spark module
• Cracked spark electrode
• Moisture in the burner assembly

How we diagnose it:
We check for a strong spark at the electrode. If there is a spark but no flame, we inspect the gas flow and burner ports. If there is no sound at all, we test the spark module and switches.

What you can do right now:
Remove the burner cap and base. Clean them thoroughly with warm water and a toothbrush to remove grease. Ensure they are completely dry before putting them back, as water interferes with the spark.

Oven Temperature Is Incorrect

If your recipes are consistently undercooked or burnt despite following instructions, your oven thermostat is likely drifting or the sensor is bad.

• Faulty temperature sensor probe
• Thermostat needing calibration
• Control board logic error
• Blocked airflow in convection models
• Door gasket leaking heat

How we diagnose it:
We use a digital temperature gauge to measure the actual internal temperature compared to the set point. We test the resistance of the sensor probe to see if it is out of spec.

What you can do right now:
Check the oven door seal. If you feel heat escaping from the sides of the door while it is running, the gasket might be torn, causing the oven to work harder and fluctuate in temperature.

Electric Cooktop Element Not Working

On a smooth top stove or coil range, having one burner out limits your cooking capacity. It might stay cold or, more dangerously, stay on high heat permanently.

• Burnt out heating element
• Infinite switch failure
• Loose wire connection
• Damaged receptacle block (coil stoves)
• Surface element limiter failure

How we diagnose it:
We test the element for continuity. If the element is good, we test the switch that controls the power flow. If the burner goes to high heat and stays there regardless of the setting, the switch is almost certainly bad.

What you can do right now:
For coil stoves, wiggle the element gently to see if it is just loose in the socket. For glass tops, look closely for any cracks or pitting on the surface.

Oven Door Will Not Open

This typically happens after running a self cleaning cycle. The safety latch engages to prevent burns but sometimes fails to release after the oven cools down.

• Failed door lock motor assembly
• Misaligned door latch
• Control board not sending the unlock signal
• Warped door frame from high heat
• Broken door hinge

How we diagnose it:
We access the lock mechanism, usually from the back or top, to manually release it if possible. We then test the motor and the sensor switches that tell the computer if the door is locked.

What you can do right now:
Do not force the door open, as you will break the glass or the latch. Wait at least one hour after the cycle ends to ensure the internal temperature has dropped enough for the safety release to trigger.

Self Cleaning Function Not Working

You set the clean cycle, but it never starts, or it stops halfway through. Self cleaning puts extreme stress on the oven components.

• Door lock switch failure
• Thermal fuse blown
• Control board safety lockout
• Temperature sensor failure

How we diagnose it:
We check the door switch continuity, as the cycle will not start if the oven thinks the door is open. We also check the high limit thermostat which protects the oven from overheating.

What you can do right now:
We actually recommend avoiding the self clean feature on older ovens, as the extreme heat often kills the sensitive electronics. Manual cleaning is safer for the lifespan of the appliance.

Smell of Gas

Smelling gas near your stove is a serious safety concern. It implies a leak in the connection or a valve that is not closing propery.

• Loose gas line connection
• Faulty pressure regulator
• Leaking burner valve
• Igniter taking too long to light

How we diagnose it:
We use an electronic gas leak detector to pinpoint the source of the fumes. We check all compression fittings and the internal regulator.

What you can do right now:
If the smell is strong, leave the house and call your utility company. If it is faint and only when lighting the burner, it might be a delayed ignition, but it still requires professional attention.

Glass Cooktop Cracked

A heavy pot dropped on a ceramic cooktop can cause a spiderweb crack. This is not just cosmetic; it is a safety hazard.

• Impact damage
• Thermal shock
• Improper installation putting stress on the glass

How we diagnose it:
This is a visual confirmation. We assess if the crack extends over any heating elements, which makes the unit unsafe to use due to potential electrical shock.

What you can do right now:
Stop using the cooktop immediately. Liquid spills can seep through the crack and hit the live high voltage electrical components underneath.